Chapshuro

Ingredients

• 1 lbwhole wheat flourfor the dough; buckwheat or millet flour also possible
• 1⅔ cupsWaterwarm, for the dough; amount depends on the flour
• 1½ tspSaltfor dough and filling
• 11½ ozMinced meatbeef, goat or meat of choice
• 2Onionfinely chopped, for the filling
• ⅔ ozcorianderchopped, for the filling
• 3green chiliesfinely chopped, for the filling
• 1 tspCuminground, or dry-roasted and coarsely crushed
• 1 tspBlack peppercoarsely ground
• 5 tbspgheefor frying; alternatively butter or apricot/walnut oil
• ⅓ ozmintfresh leaves, chopped, for the filling (optional)
• 4 clovesGarlicminced or as paste, for the cooked filling (optional)
• 1Tomatochopped, sautéed with the onions (optional)
• Saffrondissolved in a little water, stirred into the finished filling (optional)
• 1 cupYogurtfull-fat, for a raita with herbs, walnuts and apricot kernels to serve alongside (optional)

Method

1. Knead and rest the doughMix the whole wheat flour with a little of the salt, then gradually add warm water until you have a smooth, fairly firm dough. Depending on your flour, you may need a bit more or less water. Knead hard for 5 to 8 minutes, then cover and let it rest for about 20 minutes.
2. Mix the raw fillingFor a raw filling, thoroughly mix the mince with the finely chopped onion, fresh coriander, green chilies, cumin, black pepper and salt. Add some chopped mint if you like.
3. Or cook the filling insteadFor a cooked filling instead, sweat the onion with the garlic and, if you're using it, the chopped tomato, then add the mince and fry it until crumbly. Add the chopped green chilies and season with cumin, black pepper and salt, add a splash of water and let it simmer, covered, for 8 to 10 minutes. Finally stir in the fresh coriander, the mint if using, and the saffron dissolved in a little water, then let the filling cool a little.
4. Roll out the roundsDivide the dough into equal portions: two per bread if you're going to stack two rounds, one per bread if you're folding it into a parcel. Roll each portion out on a floured surface into a round flatbread.
5. Fill and seal the edgesSpread the filling over one round, leaving a clear border all the way around. Either lay a second round on top or fold the dough over the filling into a parcel, then press the edge down firmly and twist it to seal so nothing leaks out.
6. Press the bread flatterGently press the stuffed bread a little flatter with your hands, taking care not to tear the dough.
7. Cook in a dry pan until goldenHeat a heavy pan over medium-low heat and cook the bread on both sides until golden brown. Keep pressing it down lightly and turning it as you go so it browns evenly and the filling cooks through.
8. Fry crisp in fatTo finish, add the ghee, butter or oil to the pan and fry the bread in it on both sides until crisp.
9. Cut into wedges and serveTake the chapshuro out of the pan, let it rest briefly, cut it into wedges like a cake and serve warm, with raita if you like.

Tips and variations

You can swap the whole wheat flour for buckwheat or millet flour. If you'd rather use less fat, bake the bread on a dry griddle and only drizzle it with butter at the end instead of frying it in oil from the start. If you do go with oil for the final fry, apricot or walnut oil is the one people in Hunza prefer. The filling can go into the bread raw, or you can cook it first with garlic, tomato and saffron. For the shape, a single round folded into a parcel works just as well as two rounds crimped together at the edge. For a richer raita, stir some paneer into the yogurt along with the herbs, walnuts and apricot kernels.